Nestled in the heart of the Cotswolds, Bourton-on-the-Water is often hailed as the “Venice of the Cotswolds” for its enchanting stone bridges and gently flowing waterways. On a bright summer day, the village’s idyllic beauty is undeniable. The River Windrush winds through the centre, shaded by vibrant trees and framed by 16th and 17th-century cottages built from honey-coloured Cotswold stone. Ducks and swans float serenely, completing a picture-perfect scene straight out of a storybook.
During a recent visit on a sunny Saturday in June, I strolled along the riverside, crossing the quaint bridges at will while listening to the cheerful calls of an ice cream vendor. The village’s array of charming shops, cafes, and pubs offered tempting refreshments and a warm, welcoming atmosphere. I couldn’t help but admire an elderly gentleman enjoying tea in his garden with a river view—a testament to the care and love poured into these historic homes.
Among Bourton’s standout attractions is the Model Village—a remarkable one-ninth scale replica of the village as it stood in 1930. Crafted meticulously from local stone by skilled artisans, it’s a breathtaking tribute to the area’s heritage and well worth the modest entrance fee. Nearby, the Old New Inn—a grand historic hotel with a rich past—offers a touch of traditional hospitality.
The village boasts a variety of excellent dining options. The Box Bush serves everything from home-smoked trout to Sicilian pistachio gelato; the Rose Tree Restaurant offers classic pub fare in a cozy garden setting; and Smiths and Bourtons presents gourmet burgers crafted by two entrepreneurial brothers.
So, what’s the catch? Despite its charm and character, Bourton-on-the-Water has become a victim of its own popularity. The influx of visitors is overwhelming locals and straining the village’s capacity—much like the situation in nearby Bibury. The first sign of the pressures of over-tourism is the £5 all-day parking charge on a school playing field a short walk from the centre, managed efficiently by friendly stewards.
Residents voice serious concerns about the unsustainable numbers of visitors and the impact on daily life. Plans to regulate coach traffic and improve management have been slow to take effect, and a council decision to formally acknowledge tourism as a problem was rejected. Still, the Cotswold District Council aims to tackle the “overtourism nightmare” by stepping back from promoting the village to visitors.
Council leader Joe Harris summed up the dilemma: balancing vibrant local businesses that depend on tourism with preserving residents’ quality of life is essential. However, not everyone sees tourism as an unmitigated boon. In Bibury, locals believe many visitors are just there “for a selfie,” offering little real benefit to the community.
During my visit, the crowds were unmistakable. The iconic stone bridges often felt more like photo backdrops than functional crossings. While I saw only minor misbehavior, I heard stories of more chaotic incidents—such as tourists eating meals from saucepans in public—that reflect the challenges locals face.
I’m grateful to have witnessed Bourton-on-the-Water’s timeless beauty firsthand. It remains as picturesque as any postcard. My hope is for a future where the village can balance welcoming visitors with preserving the serenity and character that make it truly special.