When winter’s gloom sets in, few remedies match the refreshment of a walk in the crisp outdoors. Wales, with its vast countryside and often deserted spaces, offers a walker’s dream come true. Its diverse landscapes—ranging from the wet flatlands of Gwent to the rugged peaks of Eryri and the dramatic coastal cliffs of Pembrokeshire—bring varied hiking experiences all within a compact country.
Yet, my favourite walk, after 30 years of hiking, lies just a two-hour drive from Gloucestershire in the remote western edges of Bannau Brycheiniog National Park, Carmarthenshire. This incredible trail winds around two glacial lakes, Llyn y Fan Fach and Llyn y Fan Fawr, along ridges that soar above steep cliffs, offering some of the most stunning vistas in Wales. It’s a route that balances challenge and flexibility—you can choose a shorter or longer circuit to suit your pace—and it carries a captivating local legend.
The full circular hike covers 9.7 miles (15.6 km) with an ascent of 2,350 feet (712 meters), usually taking around 3 hours and 45 minutes. For a gentler option, you could walk just around Llyn y Fan Fach or simply make an out-and-back trip to that first lake from the nearby car park, reducing your walk to under 90 minutes.
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Starting at the Llyn y Fan Fach car park, accessible by sat-nav, the walk begins with an easy climb along a gravel path beside the Sawdde River. After about 1.3 miles and 30-40 minutes, you reach the serene Llyn y Fan Fach. Hidden from view until you arrive beside it, the lake’s stunning beauty is enchanting—no surprise it’s tied to the legendary Lady of the Lake.
If you stop here, enjoy a peaceful picnic beside the water before retracing your steps. If you press on, you’ll tackle the climb to your right facing the lake, ascending to breathtaking panoramic views of the lake below, the rolling hills, and the wider countryside. On clear days, the vista stretches endlessly; on misty days, the landscape cloaks itself in mysterious fog, intensifying the drama. Beware the strong winds sweeping across the peaks.
From the ridge, head toward Picws Du, a striking peak in this area, and then continue east to Fan Brycheiniog. Along the way, you’ll find a small stone shelter offering shelter and a moment to pause. Next, descend to Llyn y Fan Fawr and circle it anticlockwise before returning to Llyn y Fan Fach and following the path back to your car.
The folklore surrounding Llyn y Fan Fach is as captivating as the scenery. Legend tells of a young farmer who fell in love with a beautiful woman emerging from the lake’s waters. The couple married under the condition that he never strike her thrice — a condition eventually broken, causing her to vanish back into the lake, though their two sons remained. These sons became the renowned Physicians of Myddfai, serving the English royal court and enhancing local lore.
The nearest village is Llanddeusant. To reach the car park from Gloucestershire, travel west along the A40 towards Sennybridge, then follow signs to Llanddeusant and Llyn y Fan Fach car park.
This walk is more than just a journey through stunning landscapes—it’s an adventure steeped in natural grandeur and timeless legend, making it, in my experience, the finest hike within easy reach of Gloucestershire.