James Martin has candidly revealed the harsh realities of working in the hospitality industry, especially within London’s competitive market. The celebrated ITV chef, who owns and operates multiple restaurants across the UK, described the sector as both rewarding and fraught with ongoing challenges.
The 52-year-old recently embarked on an exciting new venture at The Lygon Arms in Broadway, Gloucestershire, where he opened two new dining venues as part of a partnership with Iconic Luxury Hotels, owners of the prestigious Chewton Glen in Hampshire. This follows his earlier success launching The Kitchen Restaurant & Cookery School at Chewton Glen in 2017.
Despite his passion, James expressed deep concerns about the unpredictable nature of the industry. Speaking to Luxury London, he said, “In hospitality, you’re a victim of so many things you can’t control.” Highlighting how global events impact prices, he explained, “I can’t dictate the price of grain when there’s a war in Ukraine and it’s costing the farmer more, so my meat prices have gone through the roof.”
James also shared alarming statistics about the fragility of the sector: “There are 10 pubs closing every week.” He recounted a personal example of a friend whose small London restaurant’s energy bills skyrocketed from £8,000 per year to £120,000 “just like that.”
Discussing London’s restaurant scene, James admitted, “London scares the hell out of me. It’s very transient and people will leave for an extra 10p.”
Beyond managing his restaurants, James continues to maintain a busy schedule as the host of ITV’s James Martin’s Saturday Morning and Midweek Menu shows and as an author. His love for food goes back to his roots, inspired by his tenant farmer grandparents who cultivated their own produce. “From the taste of that first tomato to pulling potatoes out of the ground, [working with food] is all I’ve ever wanted to do,” he shared.
The challenges James outlines resonate throughout London’s hospitality sector. A report from March 2020 to April 2024 reveals that 3,011 hospitality businesses in the capital have closed. Michael Kill, CEO of The Night Time Industries Association (NTIA), highlighted the steep rise in operational costs, with expenses for bars and restaurants up 30 to 40% from pre-COVID times.
Kill warned, “Our industry is at breaking point. Spiralling costs, energy prices, rent, supplier costs, wage increases, and pandemic debt repayments are creating an unsustainable environment.” Many businesses face cost increases of up to £100,000 annually, risking closure without urgent government intervention to protect vital cultural institutions and creative spaces.
James Martin’s Saturday Morning airs today at 9.30 am on ITV and ITVX.