Bourton-on-the-Water, often called the “Venice of the Cotswolds,” captivates visitors with its serene waterways and enchanting stone bridges. The River Windrush gracefully winds through the village, shaded by lush trees painted in seasonal hues. Traditional 16th and 17th-century Cotswold stone cottages line the banks, while ducks and swans glide peacefully on the water, creating a postcard-perfect scene.
On a sunny Saturday in June, I strolled along the river, crossing the bridges at will and soaking in the sights and sounds—the call of an ice cream vendor weaving through the air, the laughter of visitors enjoying coffees and cakes al fresco at quaint cafes and tea rooms. Locals tended to their beautiful homes, pride evident in every well-kept garden and stone façade.
One highlight I couldn’t miss was the Model Village—a stunning one-ninth scale replica of Bourton as it appeared in 1930. Meticulously crafted from local stone, it’s a testament to expert craftsmanship and a perfect miniature escape, all for a modest entry fee.
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Dining choices abound by the water: the Box Bush offers everything from smoked trout to gelato, the Rose Tree serves traditional pub fare in a charming riverside setting, and Smiths and Bourtons dishing up hearty burgers.
Yet despite its undeniable charm, Bourton-on-the-Water faces a serious downside: severe over-tourism. From the moment I arrived, signs of strain were clear. The village directs visitors to a large car park—charging £5 a day—situated on a school playing field just a short walk from the centre, manned by friendly stewards guiding the influx of tourists.
Locals are feeling the pressure as visitor numbers far exceed what the small village can comfortably handle. The hassle is exacerbated by coach traffic, particularly the inconsiderate behaviour of some drivers, causing “free-for-all chaos” in narrow streets. Though plans to manage coach access are in the works, a proposal to officially recognise the tourism problem was rejected by the council.
To their credit, the Cotswold District Council is cautious about promoting Bourton too heavily, recognising the need to balance tourism benefits with residents’ quality of life. Council leader Joe Harris acknowledges the “strong sentiments” about the negative impact of excessive visitors.
Nearby Bibury, another picturesque village, has voiced similar concerns, with locals questioning whether the economic benefits of tourism outweigh the downsides when many visitors seem to come only for quick photos.
During my visit, the village’s popularity was unmistakeable. The iconic stone bridges often felt less like functional walkways and more like backdrops for endless photoshoots. While I avoided any embarrassing scenes such as tourists “eating from saucepans,” the crowds were undeniable.
Despite its challenges, Bourton-on-the-Water remains incredibly beautiful. My hope is that the village can find a sustainable way to welcome visitors without sacrificing the unique charm and tranquility that makes it so special to its residents.