Finding a quintessential countryside pub—complete with roaring fires, low ceilings, cozy snugs, and a memorable Sunday lunch—is becoming rarer by the day. With countless pubs shutting across the UK, discovering a venue that offers all these comforts alongside outstanding cuisine feels almost impossible.
Yet, nestled near the literary town of Hay-on-Wye, between the scenic Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons, lies the Felin Fach Griffin. While it feels like the heart of Wales, it’s conveniently just an hour from Gloucestershire. This charming inn defies trends, boasting eight inviting rooms and a reputation built on old timber, crackling fires, and a kitchen that truly cares.
Celebrated in the Good Food Guide’s first-ever list of Britain’s 100 Best Pubs, the Felin Fach Griffin shines with numerous accolades—from the Good Pub Guide’s awards to a César award for Welsh Inn of the Year, and even a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand. It perfectly captures what a country pub should be: welcoming, unpretentious, and deeply committed to quality food.
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Part of the Inkin brothers’ ‘Eat, Drink, Sleep’ trilogy alongside Cornwall’s Gurnard’s Head and Old Coastguard, this inn is described by the Good Food Guide as an “archetypal dream of a country inn.” After venturing through rainy, tricky conditions on the A470, the pub’s deep cherry red façade was a beacon of comfort and relief. Inside, staff welcomed me with warmth and promptly offered an autumn-inspired cocktail—just what I needed.
The atmosphere is undeniably inviting: a roaring fire, timber beams, dogs dozing on soft sofas, colorful décor, and subtle seasonal touches. The service strikes the perfect balance—professional but never intrusive—while the pricing strategy ensures drinks remain affordable for locals, proving “London prices can stay in London.”
Local ales from Brecon Brewing, Antur Brew Co., Wye Valley, and others grace the bar, complemented by a thoughtfully curated wine list featuring carafes and glasses meant for sampling and celebration alike.
In the kitchen, Head Chef Gwenann Davies—a former senior sous chef at Tom Kerridge’s Lush—delivers a daily-changing menu inspired by nearby farms and hills. Each dish showcases the best of Welsh lamb, beef, game, and cheeses.
Our starters were a delight: from carrot tartare with black garlic and smoked rapeseed oil to smoked salmon with baby beetroot and puffed rice, and a salty pork belly with bacon jam. I chose the white crab on a toasted crumpet, bursting with bright, creamy freshness, while my husband enjoyed a chicken and confit leek terrine, subtly enhanced by truffle oil and raisins. A zingy piccalilli might have been a perfect finishing touch, but we were more than satisfied.
The mains were exceptional. My beef rump was cooked perfectly pink, paired with creamy potatoes and a rich bourguignon jus. The pork belly, served with BBQ apple purée, black pudding, pork fritter, and warming chilli cabbage, was the ideal balance of crispy and tender. Every bite affirmed why overcooked beef should be considered a crime.
Other tempting mains included plaice with warm tartare sauce, salt-baked celeriac with cod, mushroom pithivier, and roasted beetroot gnocchi.
The sides deserve special mention: triple-cooked chips with aioli were addictive; buttered greens and tenderstem broccoli with Welsh blue cheese and hazelnuts elevated the vegetable offerings; and extra creamed potatoes were an indulgence worth every bite.
Desserts continued the high standard, with a white chocolate mousse accompanied by berry ice cream, fresh raspberries, and crunchy honeycomb that delighted the palate.
The Good Food Guide sums it up best: every dish at Felin Fach Griffin is carefully crafted, culminating in an ultra-traditional Sunday lunch celebrating local meats, garden greens, and homely touches.
After dinner, retreating to one of the inn’s calm, TV-free rooms was a welcome delight. The rooms boast countryside chic comforts with robes, cafetières, Roberts Radios, Bramley toiletries, homemade biscuits, and local artwork. The combination of restful sleep and cozy ambiance, perhaps aided by a cheeky nightcap by the fire, made for the perfect end to the day.
Morning brought a breakfast showcasing the same local ethos: hearty Borders Breakfast, natural Welsh yoghurt, house-made muesli, fresh garden fruit, and fresh apple juice from the Usk Valley, all served with cheerful, attentive hospitality.
Leaving Felin Fach Griffin, it’s clear this pub thrives by embracing its rustic charm without pretense. Its exceptional kitchen respects ingredients without overcomplicating, the rooms offer genuine comfort, and the staff deliver attentive, authentic service.
For anyone seeking superb food, a welcoming stay, and a pub that truly serves its local community, the Felin Fach Griffin in the Bannau Brycheiniog mountains is a countryside haven worthy of a visit. Settle by the fire, sip a fine glass of wine, and rediscover what a country pub should be.