William Blake famously described England as “fair and pleasant land,” contrasting the beauty of the countryside with the bleakness of the Industrial Revolution. This sentiment still holds true today, especially when escaping into the idyllic landscapes of the Cotswolds. Recently, I had the pleasure of exploring this quintessential part of middle England, a region designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) since 1966 and now known as the Cotswolds National Landscape.
Spanning nearly 800 square miles across six counties, the Cotswolds offer rolling hills, charming market towns, and historic villages. Our journey began on the northern edge of the area at the Farncombe Estate—a remarkable 500-acre retreat gaining acclaim for its variety of accommodations and outstanding hospitality.
Our stay included two unique experiences on the estate, starting at Dormy House. This classic country house hotel blends farmhouse-chic style with roaring log fires and sumptuous interiors. I enjoyed a night in a cozy converted barn complete with a private outdoor hot tub, perfect for warming up against a chilly Cotswold mist. Dormy House recently earned a top-20 spot in the Condé Nast Traveler awards, and their exquisite dining did not disappoint.
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After a luxurious morning, we set out to explore nearby towns none of us had visited before. Our first stop was Stow-on-the-Wold, a historic market town once central to the wool trade. While it’s a popular tourist destination—especially with American visitors—it retains undeniable charm in its market square and grand church. Next was Moreton-in-Marsh, an old coaching town with a broad High Street that still feels vibrant with commerce and history.
Chipping Campden was perhaps the highlight, known for boasting one of England’s finest high streets. Its honey-stone buildings and lively local atmosphere offered a quieter, less tourist-filled experience, yet it buzzed with life. Finally, we visited Broadway, a picturesque village nestled below the Farncombe Estate. Broadway draws mostly British day-trippers enjoying its quaint shops and eateries under the gentle sun.
Our second night was spent at The Fish, the Farncombe Estate’s more playful and intimate woodland retreat. Featuring luxury shepherd’s huts and treehouses, it felt cozy and adventurous. Our accommodation included a wood burning stove, hot tub, and a “sunshine roof” over the bed that invited stargazing. Dining at The Hook restaurant was a revelation—coastal-inspired seafood prepared to perfection despite the estate’s inland setting.
What stood out most about the Farncombe Estate was its unpretentious atmosphere. Dogs were welcomed, with a dedicated playground for our furry friend at The Fish. Although we didn’t get to visit Foxhill Manor, the estate’s elegant Grade II listed manor house recently named the UK’s top hotel, it’s definitely on my list for next time.
With retirement gifting us the freedom to explore our own backyard, the Cotswolds remain a captivating patchwork of history, charm, and natural beauty—perfect for both the seasoned visitor and the curious explorer seeking something a little less touristy.