William Blake once described “England’s fair and pleasant land,” contrasting it with the grim industrial era. Today, that phrase still resonates as we witness the urbanization of landscapes, making the Cotswolds’ natural beauty all the more precious.
Recently, I had the chance to explore this quintessential heart of “middle England” at a more leisurely pace. Now in semi-retirement, I find the joy of discovering my own country—away from the usual holiday crowds and exotic destinations—is a rewarding experience.
Our journey led us to the north-western edge of the Cotswolds, within the breathtaking Cotswolds National Landscape, England’s largest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty spanning six counties and nearly 800 square miles. Nestled here is the Farncombe Estate, a sprawling 500-acre retreat rapidly gaining a reputation as a world-class destination blending luxury and charm.
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The estate offers something for every traveler. Our two-night stay included visits to two of its key properties, beginning with Dormy House, a classic country house hotel perched atop the estate. With its “farmhouse-chic” ambiance—roaring log fires and sumptuous interiors—it recently earned a top-20 spot in the Condé Nast Traveler awards. We enjoyed a cozy barn conversion room equipped with a private outdoor hot tub, an indulgent spot to unwind amid the misty Cotswold weather. Dinner at Dormy House’s elegantly lively dining room was a memorable affair filled with fellow travelers.
The next day, the lifting morning mist revealed the charming northern Cotswolds. While the countryside is pleasant rather than awe-inspiring—especially to those accustomed to the wildness of the Westcountry—the towns and villages here are an absolute delight.
Our first stop was Stow-on-the-Wold, a historic wool trade town bustling with tourists, mostly Americans, drawn to its famous market square and magnificent church. Despite the crowds and gift shops, its rich heritage made it worth exploring.
Next was Moreton-in-Marsh, a broader, linear town in the Evenlode Valley known for its role as a coaching stop on the old Roman Fosse Way. Its wide High Street retains the lively spirit of trade and transit.
Chipping Campden followed, often hailed as having England’s finest high street—a honey-stone ribbon gracefully curved and bathed in winter sunlight. Here, fewer tourists wander, allowing a glimpse of local life buzzing quietly.
Our final stop was Broadway, nestled under the hills that cradle the Farncombe Estate. This handsome “show village” attracts mainly British visitors who enjoy its eateries, shops, and inviting main street.
The real magic awaited back at the Farncombe Estate’s woodland retreat, The Fish. Positioned on the estate slopes visible from Broadway, it offers quirky, playful luxury in “hideaway huts” and treehouses surrounded by tranquil forest. My stay in a double shepherd’s hut, complete with a wood-burning stove and hot tub, was intimate and inviting, enhanced by a “sunshine roof” above the bed that offered a view of the moonlit canopy.
Dining at The Hook restaurant was an unexpected pleasure. Despite being far from the coast, the coastal-inspired seafood menu, crafted under culinary director Martin Burge, was exemplary. My gurnard with braised octopus and cuttlefish in bouillabaisse was a triumph of flavor.
What truly sets Farncombe Estate apart is its relaxed, “unstuffy” atmosphere. Pet owners will appreciate the dedicated dog playground at The Fish—comfort and welcome extend to four-legged guests as well.
Though we didn’t stay at Foxhill Manor, the estate’s Grade II listed manor house recently acclaimed as the UK’s top hotel, it remains a promising option for a future visit.
With the luxury, charm, and warmth of places like Farncombe, the Cotswolds prove that exploring your own “fair and pleasant land” has its own incomparable rewards.